Adding a single room AC to your house. Reliable unit/pricing?

[Hawk256]

There are 37 different categories of electricity users. A portion of those follows a tariff adjustment mechanism.

The household group is called R, this contains 5 price categories, these were the 2022 electricity rates per kWh:
Class R-1/TR with 900 VA power, IDR 1,352 per kWh.
Class R-1/ TR with 1,300 VA power, IDR 1,444.70 per kWh.
Class R-1/ TR with 2,200 VA power, IDR 1,444.70 per kWh.
Class R-2/ TR with 3,500-5,500 VA power, IDR 1,699.53 per kWh.
Class R-3/TR with power of 6,600 VA and above, IDR 1,699.53 per kWh.

So if you go from 4.400 to 5.500 for instance, you pay the same per kWh. It’s a strong conviction in the Indonesian society that every upgrade results in a higher kWh price.

These were the 2022 non-subsidized electricity tariff groups. With the tariff adjustment, household customers of that group R normally have their rates adjusted yearly.

Subsidized is something very different of course, some very limited usage and low income households pay much less.

I guess my mistake was asking PLN directly. They told me on prepay tokens that there was no difference for 900 to 5500 per kWh but more that 5500 would be more per kWh.

 

[Samoerai]

When did you ask PLN? As far as I know PLN changed the 'tarif' in June 2022: no subsidie for the 'rich people' anymore. All over the news at that time.

 

[Hawk256]

When did you ask PLN? As far as I know PLN changed the 'tarif' in June 2022. All over the news at that time.

It was earlier than that. Maybe December 2021. Didn't see any news that the tariff had changed. PLN certainly didn't notify me. I need more than 2200 watts anyway so it doesn't really affect me.

 

[Hawk256]

Also, you might be surprised at how much you can run on 2,200 watts. As long as they aren't all trying to start at the same exact moment, I could run a 1 PK AC, a .5 PK AC and an electric hot water heater all at the same time. The standard load from an AC is actually pretty low after startup. I had that setup for 3 years at our old house and the only time the breaker would pop is it you were running all of the above and tried to start the microwave.

 

[fastpitch17]

When did you ask PLN? As far as I know PLN changed the 'tarif' in June 2022: no subsidie for the 'rich people' anymore. All over the news at that time.

Yes, raised the rates for 3300 and above. They claim they were raising non subsidized services but for some reason they missed the non subsidized 2200. Of course, 2200 is the majority and they would get protest. If they woukd have raised the 2200 then the increases would have been enormously less.

 

[Jaime C]

Our house has 2 living area floors, plus a street level carport. I have a feeling that the 2200 watts are divided between the living area.

Our 800 watt microwave that I use on the top floor a few times a week will pop the breaker upstairs on occasion. I know if we get the AC, we will have to definitely check if it has a surge when powering up, before buying a particular model.

 

[Samoerai]

Our house has 2 living area floors, plus a street level carport. I have a feeling that the 2200 watts are divided between the living area.

Our 800 watt microwave that I use on the top floor a few times a week will pop the breaker upstairs on occasion. I know if we get the AC, we will have to definitely check if it has a surge when powering up, before buying a particular model.

The next level of the Residential tarif, after 2200 W, would be: 3500 - 5500 W.
See Jstars post:
The household group is called R, this contains 5 price categories, these were the 2022 electricity rates per kWh:
Class R-1/TR with 900 VA power, IDR 1,352 per kWh.
Class R-1/ TR with 1,300 VA power, IDR 1,444.70 per kWh.
Class R-1/ TR with 2,200 VA power, IDR 1,444.70 per kWh.
Class R-2/ TR with 3,500-5,500 VA power, IDR 1,699.53 per kWh.
Class R-3/TR with power of 6,600 VA and above, IDR 1,699.53 per kWh.

KOMPAS, 6 jANUARY 2023: "PLN has ensured that it will not increase electricity rates in the first quarter of 2023 or from January to March 2023. This policy was carried out on the grounds of maintaining people's purchasing power amidst the post-Covid-19 economic recovery,"

 

[jstar]

Btw, after having to deal with fungus and smelly clothes and sheets and towels constantly after being away for some time, I decided to get a dehumidifier.

Since bringing the temperature down is not as important as the humidity when we’re not around, I’m using this De’Longhi unit if we’re gone for more than a week or so. Its electricity use is not so high and you can select the maximum humidity (e.g. 80%). It automatically restarts after a power failure.

That helps a lot, the selang from the exhaust goes into the bathroom floor drain. And no more problems with foul-smelling textiles.

 

[Samoerai]

Btw, after having to deal with fungus and smelly clothes and sheets and towels constantly after being away for some time, I decided to get a dehumidifier.

Since bringing the temperature down is not as important as the humidity when we’re not around, I’m using this De’Longhi unit if we’re gone for more than a week or so. Its electricity use is not so high and you can select the maximum humidity (e.g. 80%). It automatically restarts after a power failure.

That helps a lot, the selang from the exhaust goes into the bathroom floor drain. And no more problems with foul-smelling textiles.

To bring the humidity down, I use my Daikin AC. It has the option "dry". Is that the same as dehumidifier?

 

[jstar]

The ‘dry mode’ of the split unit is a very rudimentary version of dehumidification. You can compare it a bit with the manual aircon in the car vs the more advanced climate control. It is more for if you’re gone for the day or if you have something in your room that’s somewhat sticky or clammy.

I never use it anymore. Not only because I hate to change any settings with the remote now but more importantly since I can’t control the level of humidity. In the models I have used, it’s always been an ON/OFF situation. Now depending on how long I’m gone I can play with the % to avoid mildew; I choose a different setting for one week vs three months, during rainy or dry season, for a couple of hours at night or during the day…

When there’s a power failure (on average once a week), many units don’t automatically resume the previous operating mode, this one does (luckily I checked before purchase).

 

[Samoerai]

The ‘dry mode’ of the split unit is a very rudimentary version of dehumidification. You can compare it a bit with the manual aircon in the car vs the more advanced climate control. It is more for if you’re gone for the day or if you have something in your room that’s somewhat sticky or clammy.

I never use it anymore. Not only because I hate to change any settings with the remote now but more importantly since I can’t control the level of humidity. In the models I have used, it’s always been an ON/OFF situation. Now depending on how long I’m gone I can play with the % to avoid mildew; I choose a different setting for one week vs three months, during rainy or dry season, for a couple of hours at night or during the day…

When there’s a power failure (on average once a week), many units don’t automatically resume the previous operating mode, this one does (luckily I checked before purchase).

Yes, the dry mode function is on/of only. When switched on .. it will lower the humidity in the room automatically to around 50% (I just read the manual): 24 liter water per day will be extracted out off the air. The OP should consider this function ... not all models have this dry function. Not only important to keep fungus out, but also insects that like humid conditions (like book lice and such).

 

[Banana72]

Maybe it's just my bad luck with inverters....one Daikin ACs and one panasonic...in the period of maybe 5 years. Was told by the AC guy that inverter can't handle electricity fluctuations (and prior to installing a stabilizer we struggled with keeping the house cool) so just regular AC now and installed a stabilizer for the whole house.

 

[fastpitch17]

Yes, the dry mode function is on/of only. When switched on .. it will lower the humidity in the room automatically to around 50% (I just read the manual): 24 liter water per day will be extracted out off the air. The OP should consider this function ... not all models have this dry function. Not only important to keep fungus out, but also insects that like humid conditions (like book lice and such).

To dry, an A/C must run the compressor so the coils cool to collect the moisture. Run that compressor and you might as well just run your cooling A/C. If you set your A/C to a hight temp, you will get less cooling and some dehumidification. A seperate dehumidifyer would get the job done better simply because they need a smaller compressor and pull more air through them per cubic meter.

 

[Samoerai]

Maybe it's just my bad luck with inverters....one Daikin ACs and one panasonic...in the period of maybe 5 years. Was told by the AC guy that inverter can't handle electricity fluctuations (and prior to installing a stabilizer we struggled with keeping the house cool) so just regular AC now and installed a stabilizer for the whole house.

Stabilizer .. those things are expensive, right?

 

[Hawk256]

Stabilizer .. those things are expensive, right?

Very few modern electronic items benefit from a stabilizer. Most appliances are converting to DC at the power supply and can handle different voltages.Two exceptions being AC units (including inverters) and refrigerators.

 

[Samoerai]

Very few modern electronic items benefit from a stabilizer. Most appliances are converting to DC at the power supply and can handle different voltages.Two exceptions being AC units (including inverters) and refrigerators.

What about tv's and computers? Can those things handle electricity fuctuations?

 

[Hawk256]

What about tv's and computers? Can those things handle electricity fuctuations?

The old TV's were susceptible to voltage fluctuations as were some of the older computer power supplies. With modern technology not so much. Most power supplies now can operate on voltages from 110-240 (+/- 10%) volts and 50-60 hertz power. This is a simplified explanation but as long you have enough wattage to power the unit, voltage isn't as important as it used to be. The power supply is converting to DC before it reaches the circuit. A malfunctioning power supply is a different matter though.

 

[jstar]

Very few modern electronic items benefit from a stabilizer. Most appliances are converting to DC at the power supply and can handle different voltages.Two exceptions being AC units (including inverters) and refrigerators.

We have quite a lot of issues with the microwave. Another very important exception is the LED spot lighting that works on 220/240V. Esp. those small ceiling spots, the downlighters, can be extremely vulnerable and will give up fast. The dimmable versions and the 12V (MR16/GU5.3) which are connected to transformers last much longer.

 

[Hawk256]

We have quite a lot of issues with the microwave. Another very important exception is the LED spot lighting that works on 220/240V. Esp. those small ceiling spots, the downlighters, can be extremely vulnerable and will give up fast. The dimmable versions and the 12V (MR16/GU5.3) which are connected to transformers last much longer.

Yes, microwave in another example of things that can benefit from a stabilizer. Well pumps are another one. The problem with most LED lights here is that they use cheap drivers. The bulb itself it good for years but once the driver goes out, the bulb is useless (unless you want to replace the driver which doesn't make finanicial sense).

 

[Jaime C]

It’s cooled off the last week, so this project is now on the back burner. I guess if the weather gets uncomfortable for ling enough, we’ll break down and get one.